The Perpetual Tourist

Stonehenge is probably one of the coolest things on Earth. It’s simply a formation of big rocks, so that in itself is nothing spectacular, but the fact that it’s been there for several thousand years is just mind boggling. Which is why it’s also one of the most annoying things on Earth. The unanswered questions — the how, the why — are enough to drive a curious person insane.

Stonehenge as seen from the heelstone

Even with modern technology, such a building project would be no easy task. Those stones weigh many tons apiece — just thinking about how they got there is enough to make me strongly consider belief in aliens.

Located in Wiltshire, England, construction began on Stonehenge an estimated 5,000 years ago. Archaeological evidence suggests that Stonehenge was used as a burial ground in its earliest days, before the stones were placed.

Historians estimate that Stonehenge was created in phases, and was used for a period of up to 6,500 years — but what is was used for is one of the world’s greatest mysteries. Most leading theories suggest that the site was of religious importance, either as a worship site or altar for human sacrifice. Others suggest that Stonehenge was built for astronomical purposes. Some of the more colorful theories, based on the assumption that moving stones that size would have been impossible for humans at that time, assume that Stonehenge is a supernatural creation, or that it was built by extraterrestrials.

Archaeologists have discovered holes where stones once stood but are now fallen or gone. Restoration efforts began in 1901, and several stones have since been re-erected or repositioned in accordance with how we know they once were. Digs are ongoing to find more clues to the erection and use of Stonehenge. Volunteers are welcome at the site to help with conservation efforts as well as management and education.

1877 photograph of Stonehenge, prior to any restoration work

If you’d like to see Stonehenge, but a trip to England isn’t in the cards for you, there are replicas (of varying accuracy) all over the world.

In the US, you can visit a full-sized, astronomically-aligned replica of Stonehenge, as it would have originally been built, in Maryhill, Washington. Dedicated in 1918, this monument was built as a memorial to soldiers who lost their lives in the First World War. Another American replica, this one half-scale, can be found at Missouri University of Science & Technology in Rolla, MO.

Maryhill, WA Stonehenge Replica

Whenever I visit Vegas, I feel like my trip ends too abruptly. There’s just so much to see and do, and for all that I get to experience, there’s so much more that I feel like I’ve missed. Oh well. Vegas will still be there when I go back, hopefully soon.

I do enjoy the casino scene, and on my last visit, I got to check out some new (to me) casinos and games. I am not by any means a high roller, so my definition of best casino is one that has low-limit games, a nice variety, good comps, and a fun atmosphere. On my latest visit, I spent most of my time at the following casinos: The Las Vegas Hilton, The Riviera, Circus Circus, Slots-A-Fun, The Sahara, and Planet Hollywood. None of these are really A-list locations on the strip, but like I said, I didn’t have the bankroll for the A-list.

Consensus among my wealthier companions is that the Bellagio is the best casino for high rollers in Las Vegas. I did not check it out for myself, but I also recently finished a great blackjack book that mentioned that the best blackjack tables in Vegas (as far as the player’s advantage) at also at this casino. But getting back to what I know…

I don’t really mess around with slot machines. The house edge is so high it just feels like paying taxes, and there’s no social interaction. One of my favorite things about casino gaming is meeting other players and dealers and enjoying the roller coaster with them. I like blackjack because it’s got the best odds in Vegas (when you know what you’re doing) and craps, because it’s a really exciting game with decent enough odds that you probably won’t lose the farm.

Of the casinos I visited last week, Slots-A-Fun is one of the most popular. Owned by Circus Circus and located at the far north end of the Vegas strip, Slots-A-Fun is one of the few casinos in town with $1 tables. Most casinos have a table minimum starting at $5 during slower times and $10 in the busier times, so cheap tables like this are few and far between. That’s pretty much the only thing Slots-A-Fun has going for it — it’s an otherwise dumpy place, and the crowds can be overwhelming. You can also get a half pound hot dog for 99 cents, but that doesn’t excite this vegetarian very much. The soy burgers there are nine bucks.

The Hilton is nicer than the Riv, but both have about the same offerings as far as games and minimums. I only saw a few $5 tables at either place, and they were always full when I walked by. One thing I noticed about the fancier casinos is that there was less smoking inside.

My favorite casino of this visit was Planet Hollywood. It was here that I learned to play craps, thanks to some friendly dealers and helpful fellow gamblers. The PH casino had lots of variety and nice, low table minimums during the daylight hours when I was there. It was clean and attractive, the free cocktails were tasty, and best of all, the dealers made it tons of fun.

Having a good dealer can make or break a gambling experience. The guys at my craps table at Planet Hollywood helped me with the rules, chatted with us while we played, and definitely earned the tips I threw their way. Carlos from Pitney, a particularly animated dealer at PH, was a blast — try to find his table when you visit, and win or lose, you’ll have a good time.

No one paid me off to say that — in fact, I lost $200 in my afternoon at Planet Hollywood, and I didn’t even sign up for their comp card to earn anything back. (That was my mistake. You should always sign up for the comp cards.) But I did drink two and a half free (or very expensive, depending on whether you win or lose…) margaritas, and I had a good time, so I’m considering it $200 well spent on an afternoon of solid entertainment.

I’m eagerly anticipating my next Vegas trip to continue my research into the best casino on the strip. But while I’ll definitely try some new places, I really look forward to poking my head back inside Planet Hollywood and trying to get some of my money back from Carlos. If you see him there, tell him Meg from Virginia says hi.

Don’t forget to tip your dealers!

My husband and I arrived in Las Vegas at 1am this morning. Our trip here was uneventful and painless, which I decided to interpret as a good omen.

We’re here for the 2008 Summer North American Bridge Championships, and we have reservations with our team to stay at Circus Circus. I’ve never stayed at Circus Circus before, but it’s got kind of a cruddy reputation. It’s located at the ass end of the strip, it’s one of the older, less fabulous casino/hotels here, and it’s billed as the most family friendly place in Sin City, so it’s overrun with children.

But it’s cheap.

When we checked in, the front desk attendant told us that the rooms were sold out for the night, so they’d upgraded us to “one of the nicest rooms in the hotel!” Shame our reservation is broken into two parts, and this one is only for one night. After signing all the check-in documents, we were directed to the Honeymoon Suite. Hey, we are sort of newlyweds. Perfect!

So what does “one of the nicest rooms” at Circus Circus look like? Well, it’s not exactly out of the pages of a magazine. The room would be classified “luxury” at just about any hotel, but Vegas luxury is a much higher standard. This room is indeed very nice. It has a small kitchen, large living area, huge bedroom, and a large bathroom, all decorated with only the finest fake flowers and strange artwork.

There’s no balcony swimming pool or jacuzzi in the room, no bottles of champagne and scattered rose petals to greet us upon our arrival, and the toilet paper is still single ply. But the room smells good and looks clean. It’s far from what I imagine when I think of Vegas luxury, but for $42, it’s like hitting a modest jackpot on the nickel slots.

But then there’s the bed. Granted, after a nine-hour drive and then eleven more hours of air travel/waiting in airports, we would have slept comfortably in any bed. But the bed in the Honeymoon Suite at Circus Circus is, I am sure, the most comfortable bed that has ever existed. It is like sleeping on a very supportive king-sized cloud. If I could spend the rest of my week in this bed, I don’t think I’d even miss the casinos, the games, the shows, and the food.

And let’s not forget the pillows. I’ve got expensive, fancy pillows at home. Comfort is definitely something worth investing in, and I think my bedding is quite nice. But these pillows are a whole new world of comfort. I’ve never stolen from a hotel before, but I’m not sure I can live without these pillows now, having tasted the experience for one night. I am not going to steal these. I’m just going to hope someone will tell me where I can buy them, and then that I win enough money playing blackjack that I can afford them.

We have to check out of our Honeymoon Suite in a few hours, but we’re here in Vegas for the next seven days. Here’s hoping our luck continues!

Ever since I saw the movie Pete’s Dragon when I was a kid, I’ve wanted to live in a lighthouse. But this is just a pipe dream — most lighthouses are historic sites, not very roomy, or incredibly inconvenient to reach, out on a remote cliff somewhere. Oh well.

There are a few lighthouses in the world where you can live at least temporarily. They’re in use as hotels, and the most spectacular of these is in Harlingen, Netherlands. The Harlingen Lighthouse Hotel, about an hour away from Amsterdam, is a beautiful out-of-service lighthouse where guests can enjoy 360 degree panoramic views and luxury accommodations in the heart of the historic docks of Harlingen.

There is only one bedroom to rent, so guests have the lighthouse to themselves. You’ll have to climb 80 steep steps to reach the dwelling area, so pack lightly! Once you’re inside, you’ll find a 3-story luxury getaway, with incredible views from your bedroom and an upstairs lookout area, and all the modern comforts you find in any hotel.

Guests can climb to the original lantern room and balcony for some of the most spectacular views of all. In the lantern room, owners have put a VHF radio so guests can listen to the shipping traffic on the ocean.

Breakfast is delivered to the bottom of the lighthouse stairs each morning.

This fantastic hotel is just a short walk from the shops and restaurants of Harlingen, and right in the center of the historic port. Accommodations start at 319 Euro per night, and you need to book way in advance. It would make a unique getaway and a fantastic honeymoon destination!

For more unusual accommodations in Harlingen, check out the sister properties: The Harbor Crane and the Lifeboat.

Among other nicknames, Virginia is called “The Mother of Presidents,” as eight former U.S. Presidents have been born here. Charlottesville, home to Jefferson, Madison, and Monroe, makes a great home base from which to take your tour of these historic homes.

Monticello - You may recognize Thomas Jefferson’s Charlottesville homestead from the back of the US nickel. Tours of Jefferson’s home and extensive grounds run seven days a week. Architecture was one of Jefferson’s many passions, and you’ll get a firsthand feel of his unique style as you tour the home he designed himself. Since TJ thought wide staircases were a waste of space, fire code prohibits large tour groups from going upstairs to the home’s most recognized feature, the Dome Room. You can purchase tickets for Evening Signature Tours that will take you to the restricted areas. Visit Monticello in the summertime to avoid school crowds and see the gardens in full bloom.

Ash Lawn-Highland - Don’t spend ALL day at Monticello, because just down the road is Ash Lawn-Highland, home of James Monroe. At Ash Lawn, historical interpreters give house tours and teach educational workshops covering several aspects of 18th century life. You can participate in hands-on lessons about cooking, crafting, games, and more. Each summer, the grounds are host to the Ash Lawn Opera Festival, with several outdoor theater productions. Playing this year are My Fair Lady and Carmen, with several other special productions. Visitors to Charlottesville often overlook Monroe’s home in favor of Monticello, but I highly recommend visits to both!

Montpelier - James Madison was born, raised, and died in this Orange, Virginia home. Since 2004, the home has been undergoing massive restoration to return it to its 18th century state. In addition to regular tours of the home and grounds, theme tours are available. Running April through October are special Grounds and Gardens tours, as well as the Enslaved Community tour, which focuses on the lives of Madison’s 100 slaves and the former president’s attitudes about slavery.

Mount Vernon - Just south of Washington, DC in northern Virginia, George Washington’s plantation is the most popular historic estate in the United States. It’s not really in central Virginia, but it’s worth an extra hour or two of driving. George and Martha Washington lived in Mount Vernon from their marriage in 1759 until George’s death in 1799. In that time, Washington worked to expand the grounds from 2,000 acres to 8,000, and the house from six to twenty-one rooms. Filled with artifacts, videos, and activities, Mount Vernon is an all-day (or more) experience. Visit Mount Vernon’s calendar of events for a detailed list of all the special events offered for your visit.

You can easily make a whole week of these historic tours. Even if you’ve visited once before, there’s always something new to discover your next time around. As a child in school in central Virginia, I visited each of these homes many times, and continue to go back from time to time as an adult. It’s amazing how over two hundred years later, the history is still unfolding — research yields new details and insights all the time, and the visits are never the same.

In addition to the homes listed above, you may be interested in Woodrow Wilson’s birthplace in Staunton. Though he only lived in Virginia as a baby, we still claim him, and you’ll find that many things in Staunton bear Wilson’s name. To the south, you can find Jefferson’s retreat at Poplar Forest in Bedford, Virginia.

I love flying in and out of Portland International Airport. The airport itself is very cool, but the real appeal is getting a bird’s eye view of all the major peaks of the Cascade Range. Even though it’s a few hundred miles away from Portland, Mount Rainier in Washington is one of the most imposing sights on the skyline.

Whenever I see people with window seats on the plane not staring out at the mountains, I am convinced they have no soul. My husband says it’s just that they grew up in the area and the mountains are an everyday sight for them. Whatever — the mountains of the Pacific Northwest are just as stunning to me now as they were the first time I saw them, and if I could see them all the time, I’d never look at anything else.

If you think the view from the sky is stunning, just wait until you see Mount Rainier from its own slopes. Mount Rainier National Park is open all year, but the most popular time to visit is mid- to late summer, when more of the mountain is accessible. Summertime can be crowded at Rainier, so mid-week is the best time to visit if you come during this peak season.

In the spring, you’ll find waterfalls created by melting snow, or later in the year you can take in the vibrant colors of the fall, but remember that weather conditions will dictate how much of the mountain you’ll be able to visit. Don’t expect to get anywhere by car if you come in the winter!

Non-motorized boating and fishing are permitted in most of the park’s lakes, but keep in mind that they are only ice-free for a short window, usually from July to October.

As you might expect, there are plenty of hiking trails around Rainier. If you plan to camp overnight, you must obtain a permit, available at any of the park’s ranger stations. Never hike alone, and always inform someone else of your plans so that they can notify authorities if you do not return when expected. Check the latest wilderness alerts before leaving for a hike or climb.

Snow starts falling each year in late October, making Rainier a great place to enjoy snow sports like skiing, snowboarding, snowmobiling, showshoeing, and sledding. Conditions can get hazardous, so stick to the designated areas for these activities, and never go out alone.

For accommodations at Mount Rainier, there’s no better place to be than Paradise, an appropriately named area on the south slope of the mountain. The historic Paradise Inn has just reopened following two years of renovations. Paradise is the park’s main winter-use area, and also home to its main visitor center, the Jackson Visitor Center. Roads in and out of Paradise are kept plowed throughout the winter.

For more information about accommodations and things to do at Mount Rainier, visit the national park website here.