Season To Taste

A little more than ten years ago, my husband and I travelled to Greece for our honeymoon.  The history, the architecture, the landscape, the beaches…all were amazing.  But I expected all that.  What surprised me was the food!  Until that point in time, the only Greek food I’d had was the diner variety…gyros, Greek salad, maybe an occasional stuffed grape leaf.  While these are all dishes I enjoy—they could never have prepared me for the delicious cuisine found on both mainland Greece and the Greek Islands.

Although it was summer, a traditional Greek soup was on the menu at most restaurants:  Avgolemono soup.  It was described as a lemon soup, which I found most curious.  At our wedding just days before, we’d served a chilled strawberry soup, but I’d never had lemonsoup before.   I learned that Avgolemono is often served chilled during the warmer months, and hot during the colder months, as can be done with a Vichyssoise (although Vichyssoise is traditionally served cold, but makes an equally good hot soup).  Despite the incredibly hot, humid weather in Greece that August, I was served both the hot and cold versions during our trip. 

The preparation of this soup is simple.  Uncooked rice is simmered in chicken broth until tender, then a frothy mixture of eggs and lemon juice are slowly whisked into the hot soup.  The eggs are cooked within the broth, as I described on my other blog, The Secret Ingredient Online, in a recent post about egg drop soup.   Then the shredded chicken and fresh parsley is added to complete the dish.  Although it has some of the components of egg drop soup, the chicken and rice make it heartier, and the lemon gives it a fantastic and refreshing tang.

Upon our return home, I quickly put together a Greek-themed dinner party for friends.  Naturally, we started with Avgolemono soup and it was the surprise hit of the evening.  I’ve made this soup many times since, both at home and in my cooking classes.  Each and every time I prepare Avgolemono soup, I’m reminded of our wonderful trip, the beautiful country of Greece, and all the fantastic food I discovered that August.

 Avgolemono Soup

Serves 4

4 cups chicken broth

1/4 cup brown rice

1 cup shredded cooked chicken

2 eggs

3 tablespoons fresh lemon juice

1/4 cup fresh flat leaf parsley, chopped

salt and pepper

Place broth and rice in a medium sauce pan, cover, and bring to a boil. Lower heat and simmer, covered, for about 30 minutes, or until rice is cooked.

Meanwhile, use an electric mixer to beat eggs until frothy.  Add lemon juice and beat to incorporate. 

Add a couple tablespoons of the broth to egg mixture (to temper it), then add the egg mixture, a little at a time, to the hot broth, stirring continuously.  Add shredded chicken, salt and pepper, and heat gently for a few minutes. 

Ladle into bowls and sprinkle with parsley. 

Note:  Soup may be served immediately, or can also be served chilled.

On Christmas Eve, Italians and many Italian-Americans eat a seafood feast.  There is no meat whatsoever.  Traditionally, up to eleven different kids of fish were served (for the Apostles, minus Judas), but over the years, my family has scaled that back to three (for the Holy Trinity).  It has to be an odd number for good luck.  We always start the meal with one of my favorite dishes, Pasta con Sardo, which is spaghetti in red sauce, embellished with sardines, raisins, fennel, and often pine nuts.  The creation of this dish can get complicated.  The following dish is a lot simpler to make, but adheres to the same Christmas Eve standards I’ve come to follow.  It uses canned anchovies instead….wait!  Don’t stop reading!!  I promise you it is delicious!

Anchovies do not sit at the “popular table” in the cafeteria.  They are not pretty or sweet, and many foods don’t want to hang out with them.  Anchovies definitely have a following, but their friends are a little more alternative…they wear black and are sometimes seen as antisocial.  But what most people don’t know about the anchovies are that they are actually MUCH cooler than most of the foods at the popular table, they are just more of an acquired taste. 

Popular or not, I happen to love anchovies.  I grew up eating anchovies on white pizza, which was my great Aunt Nellie’s New Year’s Eve specialty.  I love bagna cauda, an olive oil dip made with anchovies, and I especially love anchovies in pasta dishes.  Over the summer, while visiting Italy’s Liguria region, I was in anchovy heaven.  Bordering the Mediterranean in the Italian Rivera, the local cuisine relies heavily on seafood.  Anchovies are the regional specialty, and “pasta con accuighe” is found in most every restaurant.   

This pasta dish is features a simple red sauce studded with chunks of fresh anchovies.  Fresh anchovies have a decidedly different taste than the tinned or jarred varieties with which we are most familiar here in the states.  Not only is the texture different (they are meatier), but they are more mellow and a little less salty.  However, since fresh anchovies are not widely available in most U.S. grocery stores, I’ve re-created the recipe using the tinned version. 

For this dish I pair the anchovy-enhanced red sauce with a lemon-pepper papparadelle I found at Trader Joe’s (although you could easily substitute regular pasta).  Lemon and pepper flavors go well with most seafood, and the zip in the pasta is a great compliment to the salty sauce.  On a recent night, I was short on time and decided to use my favorite jarred tomato sauce instead of making one from scratch (cue Grandma rolling over in her grave).  While the pasta cooked, I added some sauce to a small pan, added the anchovies, and stirred until they dissolved into the sauce.  I topped the dish with fresh parsley and a few chopped walnuts for texture.  It wasn’t exactly what I ate in Monterosso back in August, but it was a great 15 minute alternative with great flavor. 

Lemon-Pepper Pasta with Anchovies

Serves 2

1 - 12 oz package Lemon-Pepper Papparadelle (or other lemon-infused pasta)

1 cup basic tomato sauce (I opt for Victoria brand)

6 anchovy fillets packed in oil (drained)

¼ cup fresh parsley, chopped

¼ cup walnuts, chopped

Cook pasta according to package directions, until al dente.

While pasta cooks, add tomato sauce to a small saucepan and heat over medium-high heat.  Once simmering, add anchovy fillets and stir until dissolved.

Drain pasta and toss with sauce.  Top with parsley and walnuts and serve immediately.

Halloween has come and gone, but this year we managed not to carve all our pumpkins, so my outdoor fall decorations may even last through Thanksgiving.  With those we did carve, I am always excited to scoop out the innards, loaded with seeds and “goo” (as my kids call it).  I’ve always loved toasted or roasted pumpkin seeds….the crunch, the salt, they are pure goodness!  I’ve often toasted them in a hot pan over the stove, but this year, I opted for a more “hands-off” approach—and roasted them in the oven. 

Pumpkin seeds, which are often sold as “pepitas” in the nut aisle of the grocery store, are a great source of fiber, and perfect for healthy snacking.  When roasted, toasted, or otherwise cooked, they dry out and become crispy, with the help of some olive oil.  Many recipes call to slow-roast them in a low oven for up to an hour.  On Halloween night, between trying to get the kids fed and dressed in their costumes, all while answering the door to early trick-or-treaters, time was of the essence, so I decided to speed up the process a bit.  The oven went on 375 and in when the seeds.

Many times people rinse their seeds off before roasting them.  I didn’t bother, but I did remove the larger clumps of pumpkin “goo” from the batch.  It is a good idea to line your baking sheet with foil first, as those pumpkin remnants will tend to burn a bit and can get baked on your sheet pan.  Toss the seeds with some olive oil, sprinkle with salt, and pop into a hot oven for about 15 minutes, stirring them around about two or three times during the course of roasting.  Once out of the oven, I decided to do something a little unorthodox.  I love the combination of winter squash (pumpkin and butternut squashin particular) and parmesan cheese in pastas, risottos, and soups….so why not with pumpkin seeds?  It turned out I was onto something….and the result was delicious!  Next I’m going to try the same thing with acorn squash and butternut squash seeds…I bet they will be just as good! 

Parmesan Pepitas

1 cup of pumpkin seeds, cleaned of pumpkin flesh (by hand or by rinsing)

1-2 teaspoons olive oil

salt

1/4 cup grated parmesan cheese

Preheat the oven to 375 degrees.

Line a baking sheet with tinfoil.

Toss the seeds with the oil an salt, and spread out in a single layer on the baking sheet.

Roast in the preheated oven for approximately 15 minutes, or until they begin to brown and get crispy.  Be sure to stir them around a few times during roasting.

Remove from oven and toss with parmesan cheese.  Serve hot or at room temperature.

Store in an airtight container for up to a week.

It is the end of October, and I’m still finding great eggplant at the farmers market. 

Last week, I loaded up on the smaller, Italian-style eggplant and decided to save one for a smooth, healthy dip to serve at an upcoming party.  Since the base of the dip is roasted eggplant, rather than a fat like mayonnaise or sour cream, you don’t have to feel guilty about indulging.

 Preparing this dip is extremely simple.  I happened to be roasting some veggies one night for dinner, so I did some double-duty with my hot oven and roasted the eggplant whole.  It is important to pierce the skin all over with a fork before roasting, or else you may end up with a mini-explosion (and a huge mess) in your oven.  Simply place it in a baking dish, unadorned, and roast until the eggplant is very soft and wrinkly (see photo right).

Unless you have the “asbestos hands” you always hear television chefs talking about, allow the eggplant to cool for at least a half an hour, or until you are able to handle it.  At this point you can remove the skin, which can be accomplished in two ways.  You could split the eggplant lengthwise and use a spoon to scoop out the flesh, or, if your eggplant is very well cooked, you can just use your hands to gently peel the skin away from the soft insides.

Eggplant on its own is relatively bland, so salt is essential in this dip.  Simply place the eggplant, salt, and olive oil in a food processor (fitted with the metal blade) and pulse until smooth.  Then by hand, mix in  some feta, chopped walnuts, and fresh parsley.  I prefer to do it this way so the feta, nuts, and parsley remain a little on the chunky side, rather than getting completely pureed in the food processor.  I also love to add a tablespoon of roasted garlic, which adds tremendous flavor.  Stir to combine and you have a delicious, tangy, healthy dip perfect for pita chips, crackers, or even fresh veggies. 

Roasted Eggplant Dip with Feta

Makes about 1 ½  cups

1 large eggplant, pierced all over with a fork

2 tablespoons olive oil

Salt & pepper

½ cup crumbled feta cheese

½ cup walnuts, chopped

½ cup fresh flat leaf Italian parsley, chopped

1 tablespoon roasted garlic (click here for recipe)

Preheat oven to 425 degrees.

Place whole eggplant in an oven-proof baking dish and roast until completely softened and collapsed (about one hour).  Remove from oven and allow eggplant to cool.

Remove the skin from the eggplant (as described above), and place into the work bowl of a food processor fitted with the metal blade.  Add oil, salt and pepper and pulse until smooth.  Remove to a bowl and add feta, walnuts, parsley, and garlic. 

Stir to combine and serve with pita chips or raw veggies.

Whenever I travel, I love to read up on local foods, restaurants, and specialties of the region.  When my husband revealed that we’d be travelling to Italy and France to celebrate our anniversary, I hit the books and the internet to learn as much as I could about our destinations. 

Italy’s Liguria region is situated along the Mediterranean Riviera, with Genova as its largest city.  This area is most famous for Pesto Genovese, but according to all I read, also known for “farinata” (far-ee-nata).  Farinata is a baked pancake, of sorts, made from chickpea flour and olive oil.  It is sometimes embellished with cheese, vegetables or fresh herbs (much like a pizza).  Since many of the publications I read mentioned this regional specialty, I decided I needed to check it out.

Well, I soon discovered that was much easier said than done.  I couldn’t find it anywhere!  Not in a bakery, a pizzeria, or a restaurant.  What was worse, people seemed surprised that I was even asking about it, as if they couldn’t believe a foreigner even knew about this obscure dish.  Another told me no one had farinata because (I think I translated correctly) “the chickpea flour wasn’t good this time of year.”  My book did not say anything about bad flour in August!  This only strengthened my resolve, and I forged ahead in the name of farinata.

Then one day, while hiking through the Cinque Terre region, we came upon a pizzeria boasting “farinata” on their sign.  I excitedly went in only to discover they were out of farinata for the day.  Snap!  The search went on….

On our last day in Italy, I went out for a morning walk to pick up some “panini” to bring with us on our train ride to France.  As I ambled in and out of various little markets and stores, I found myself in a bakery looking at the different cookies for sale.  As I scanned the glass case, I saw it:  a large, round, pizza-shaped pancake with a yellowish hue.  Could this be the elusive farinata?  “Scusi, ha farinata?” -excuse me, do you have farinata?  The man behind the counter looked a little confused, probably wondering why I was asking when I was clearly (to him) standing right in front of it.  “That’s it??? FANTASTIC!”  I just about jumped out of my flip flops.  I’m quite certain he never had a customer so excited about a chickpea pancake.

Needless to say, I got a few slices to go and my husband and I enjoyed it as we watched the scenery from our train seats.  When I returned home, I sought out some chickpea flour (available in many health food stores) and made some farinata of my own. 

Rosemary Farinata

Serves 4

2 cups warm water

2 ½ cups chickpea flour (sometimes sold as “garbanzo flour”)

½  tablespoon kosher salt

1 tablespoon fresh rosemary leaves, finely chopped (or 1 teaspoon dried)

1/2 cup grated parmesan cheese

1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil

Freshly ground pepper

In a large bowl, whisk together the chickpea flour and water. 

Preheat the oven to 500°. Add the salt, rosemary, grated cheese, and oil to the batter.

Lightly oil a 12-14 inch pizza pan and add batter.  Bake for approximately 20 minutes, the edges are crisp an pull slightly away from the sides of the pan. Slide the farinata onto a serving platter and cut into wedges. Sprinkle with pepper and additional parmesan cheese and serve warm or at room temperature.

I just returned from a wonderful week in Italy and France, bursting with blog topics for Season To Taste!  Figs are in season, and were everywhere I turned in both countries; at farmers markets, at sidewalk fruit stands, and on the breakfast buffets at both our hotels.  The figs we encountered tended to be the light green variety, but I also saw some of the dark purple Mission figs more common here in the States.  At one French farmers market, I saw some very interesting fruit labeled as “figs”, which after several questions, were revealed to be a variety of a prickly pear.  “You know, figs from a cactus!  They have them in Texas!” the vendor excitedly told me in his heavy French accent. 

Inspired by my trip, I was eager to get some figs of my own. Yesterday, I snapped up a nice container of organic figs and used half of them to make this delightful and easy hors d’oeuvre.  Figs are extremely perishable, so it is important not to buy them too far in advance.  They usually last no more than three days in the refrigerator.  Dried figs last much longer (up to 6 months in the refrigerator), and are a great option during the winter months when fresh figs are not available.  However, fresh figs are something to behold, so it is worth getting them while you can (usually during the summer and fall). 

For those of you who have only experienced figs in the form of a Fig Newton cookie, you are in for a treat!  Figs may not look like much at first glance, but when you cut into them and the ruby red interior is revealed, they are among the most beautiful of fruits.  After your first bite, you’ll understand why they were considered sacred during ancient times.  They are soft and sweet and nothing short of pure bliss.  This recipe combines fresh Black Mission figs (readily available in all types of grocery stores), tangy Gorgonzola, and crunchy toasted walnuts to make an elegant starter to any meal.  Enjoy!

 Gorgonzola Stuffed Figs with Walnuts

Serves 4

8 medium sized Black Mission fresh figs

4 teaspoons crumbled Gorgonzola cheese

3 tablespoons walnuts

In a small pan, toast the walnuts over medium-low heat, about 3-4 minutes.  Shake the pan a few times to be sure all sides are toasted.  Remove to a cutting board and roughly chop.  Set aside.

Using a paring knife, carefully slice off the stem-end of each fig.  Next, from cut end, slice an “X” into the fig to open it like a flower, but being careful not to cut all the way through the bottom.

Place about ½ teaspoon of gorgonzola cheese into each opened fig.  Repeat with remaining figs and place on a baking pan.  Heat under a preheated broiler for approximately 5 minutes, or until cheese is hot and bubbly.

Place figs on a serving platter and sprinkle with chopped walnuts.  Serve warm.

 Basil is my absolute favorite herb.  Sage plays a close second, but basil—-it just livens up anything it touches!  Basil plays a part in many of my summer recipes, and for good reason.  Its fresh color, flavor, and abundance this time of year makes it the perfect accompaniment to so many dishes.  Basil is great on its own, but I particularly love to make it into pesto.  I’m somewhat of a pesto fanatic.  I make it all the time to toss with pasta (it’s great on both hot pasta and cold pasta salads), stir in soups or sauces, or to brush on meat, fish, or poultry.  It is also fantastic on grilled veggies…but more on that in a second.

It is important to know how to choose basil when at the farmers market or grocery store.  Look for bright, shiny green leaves which are free of brown spots and are not wilted.  It is also important to make sure you choose a bunch that has not yet flowered.   Once basil has begun to flower, the flavor is not as good.  This photo is an extreme example of a plant that has already flowered, but it gives a good idea of what to look for:

Photo by "Image Gratification"

Once your basil is at home, store it with the stems in a glass of water, in the refrigerator.  You can also freeze it for longer storage.  A great way to accomplish this is to, yup, you guessed it, make pesto (recipe below), which freezes extremely well.   

For this fantastic summer dish, I grill a variety of vegetables, then brush them with fresh pesto.  It is great as an antipasto or as a side dish to any meal.  

Grilled Vegetables with Pesto

Serves 4-6

For the pesto:

Makes about 3/4 cup

1 large bunch fresh basil, thick stems removed
1-2 small cloves garlic

1 T pine nuts, toasted

3 T grated Parmesan cheese

Olive oil
Salt and pepper

 Wash and thoroughly dry the basil.
In the bowl of a food processor, fitted with the metal blade, pulse the garlic and pine nuts until finely chopped.
Add the basil and process until finely chopped (you may need to scrape down the sides of the bowl with a rubber spatula a few times during chopping).
With the blades still running, add the olive oil in a stream through the feed tube until the “pesto” begins to form and easily flows around the bowl.

Remove to a bowl, and mix in Parmesan cheese. Add salt and pepper to taste.

Set aside.  Note: Press a piece of plastic wrap over pesto so the air does not turn it black.

For vegetables:

2 Italian eggplant, halved lengthwise

1 zucchini, halved lengthwise

1 yellow squash, halved lengthwise

1 red pepper, halved lengthwise and seeds/stem discarded

1 red onion, quartered

Preheat grill to medium-high heat.

Brush all vegetables with olive oil and season to taste with salt and pepper.

Place on grill and cook approximately 5-7 minutes per side (keep an eye on them, because depending on size, some may cook faster than others).

Remove to a platter and brush with pesto.

Picture from Gazy Brothers Farm, Oxford, CT

I love farmers markets. I love how the fresh produce is haphazardly placed in bushels, on tables, and in crates….none of those perfect pyramids of peppers or gravity-defying walls of grapes so common at certain unnamed grocery stores. I love the colors, the smells, and the energy of the farmers market. In most cases, the produce was picked earlier that morning, the dirt still clinging to the veggies, green tops still attached to carrots and radishes and beets (”oh my!”).

Years ago, while living in New York City, I joined a food co-op, and picked up my share at a neighborhood church twice a month. The pre-packed bags were filled with whatever was in season at the time, and was a great opportunity to try all sorts of new things. It was my first experience with fiddlehead ferns, various leafy greens, and root vegetables I didn’t recognize. I enjoyed trying to figure out what to do with my harvest, and loved tasting everything at the peak of freshness.

We now live in the suburbs, and I joined a local CSA (Community Supported Agriculture) program, which works similarly to the co-op. Each week, the farm brings that week’s harvest to one of our local farmers markets, where I go and choose 6 different types of veggies and one fruit to take home. Then, let the games begin!

My most recent share included long, thin, Japanese style eggplant, summer squash, corn on the cob, heirloom tomatoes, cilantro, carrots, and some gorgeous, plump raspberries. I decided to work on the raspberries first, since they are delicate and don’t last very long. My two little ones gobbled most of them up, but I managed to save a handful for a simple hors d’oeurve. This recipe takes only a matter of minutes to prepare, but never fails to impress (I have to give a shout-out to my friend KD, who gave me this idea).

By slicing off the very top of a mini wheel of brie (try goat’s milk brie if you can find it—it is delicious!), you create a little canvas for some food-art: spread a tablespoon or so of your favorite preserves on the cut surface (I like to use apricot), and use the fresh raspberries to make a little design on top. Pop in the oven to get the cheese all oozy and delicious, and serve with crackers or thinly sliced baguette. It’s a great excuse to have a girls night in!

Baked Brie with Raspberries
Serves 4-6
1 - 4 to 6 oz wheel of brie
1 tablespoon preserves or marmalade (apricot, raspberry, or your favorite)
10-12 whole fresh raspberries
Preheat oven to 350 degrees.
Carefully slice off the thin papery layer on top of the brie, exposing the cheese interior.
Spread preserves over cut side of the brie.
Arrange the raspberries (bottom-side facing up) on the brie, using the preserves as a sort of “glue”.
Place on a baking sheet and bake for 15-20 minutes, or until cheese is softened and warm.
Serve with crackers or thinly sliced baguette.

To find farmers markets and/or CSAs near you, go to http://www.localharvest.org/.